So due to unfortunate circumstances I had to put my "project jetta" back on the road for my dd. However this hasnt stopped the moding just slowed it down . To the point I had bought a TD Ford ranger ahwile back only to have the pump go on it shortly after and deceide it wasnt worth the fix. Scavenged a few things from it though like the "fuel pin" Which is a #21 VS the #57 that my 86 TD jetta coupe came with stock, and while I was in there I decided to play again with stuff in there most notabley with the starwheel, I took and screwed it down flush with the holder (It still can go down quite abit more) I left my boost controler alone (previously set for about 24psi over shoot and settle in at 21 psi (+or - 1psi) Then I went for a drive. The smoke and power come on alot sooner. It was slightly damp roads (they were damp but when you spun it still left rubber) The first drive went like this hard launch 1st gear tires spining all the way through, 2nd gear still spining just as they grab traction, 3rd gear tires chirp car shudders and clutch lets go I back off and cluthc reingages and I keep going finally fifth gear approching 140km/h (I was on a two lane stright flat road with no other vehicals and no cross roads for the next 1.5KM's, i'm sure some of you will dissapove but the track is closed ofr the rainy season) look in the rearview mirror and it is still smoking like a tire fire look at the boost gauge and and it is on its way past 30psi and gets to about 33psi by the time my brain reacts and I get out of it  :shock: . So now its time to reset the boost controler and drive it nicely till I can get the clutch done.

For those Who don't know the mods to this car are as follows:

Big K&N cone filter with custom straight pipe and silicone elbow to turbo, with passenger headlight removed for cold air
Manual boost controler
Custom DP 2.25" into 2.5" flex pipe into 3" exhaust with dynomax 'bullet' race muffler all mandrel bent.
throttle cable adjusted for full throw
idle screw backed right out
fuel screw in to the just b4 the runaway point (always comes back naturally never sticks)
nylon washer shaved so that the fuel pin has full travel
#21 Fuel Pin
starwheel along way down
top torx fuel preload a couple of turns down (ruffley a 1/16th" of preload on fuel pin mabey a little less)
Intercooler from mazda mx-6 in but not plumbed currently going through revision 4.1 (almost got it just how I wanted it but now looking into differnt intkaes and turbos for this extra fuel)


Things not in this car that will be hopefully this week.
New EGT gauge (sold mine to a friend when I pulled it off the road to work on it)
Governer MOD (this was done to my other pump that goes with the project engine)
Clutch and lightend flywheel (mabey a couple of weeks off depending on what I decided to go with)

Well this turned into a bit of a novel but I have a little more to add
my total cost
Car: $1500
Intercooler: $30
Manual Boost contorler: $15
Intake including K&N filter :$40
DP to Tailpipe :$200 (all fabbed by me.)
Misc. clamps, hoses, screwups, boost tube revisions ect... approx $200

Total: under $2000

not bad for something that will take a camed, headers, intake ect... modded GTI 16V and beat it by a full car length.
 



Well this was supposed to be about where your starwheel and fuel pin, as I think that there is still some good untaped potential here, so lets here from you.

If I had a camera one of those someday purchases, I would take a pic of both of them, but my #21 is at least twice as deep and agressive as my #57.

If you could post a pic of your pin and your setup with the moded lda cover and its tool that would be smokin

That's odd about your needle or about my pumps. In both the jetta and the ranger pump if the fuel pin was out and I turned the throttle shaft the needle will move until it falls right out into the starwheel cavity, I am curious as to how you are preventing this from happening, or are my pumps just freaks and they shouldn't be able to do this?

Adding some more data to what DVST8R provided on the LDA control cones (taken from this thread:
http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=4037&t=644 )
... it does seem that smaller numbered control cones indicate more aggressive / steeper-cut cone angles.

Here is an ordered list of control cones compiled from all those that we we have data on so far, including what application they were found on and the source:

-All application are North American spec unless otherwise noted-

"15.5", 1985 Mitsubishi Pickup (source: FSPGTD)
"21", 1986 Ford Ranger (DVST8R)
"23", Audi5000 5-cyl TD (FSPGTD)
"27", 1983 Jetta 1.6l TD "CY" (DIESELTECH)
"34", 1984 Jetta 1.6l TD "CY" (FSPGTD)
"34", 1988 Quantum 1.6TD "CY", UK-spec (MARK(THE MISER) UK)
"51", 1986 Peugeot 505 TD (VWMIKE)
"57", 1986 Jetta coupe 1.6lTD "MF" (DVST8R)
"67", 1989 VW 1.6na "ME" with altitude compensator (DIESELTECH)

Pic of the "23" Audi5k control cone:


I'll have to check out what the number the '84 Jetta 1.6lTD control cone is that I have been using.  I can say for sure that it's more aggressive (by at least a little bit) than the "23" Audi5000 5-cyl TD one.  But I doubt it's more aggressive than the "15.5" '85 Mitsubishi pickup cone.

DVST8R - is that '86 Jetta you mentioned that came with the "57" cone, a stock engine code "CY" or "MF" or something else?  I'm a little surprised that an '84 Jetta 1.6lTD (engine code "CY") has such a more aggressive cone (more aggressive than a "23") than an '86 Jetta (at a "57"!)  It's not an eco-diesel or some sort is it?

Andy2 - would be interested in seeing some pictures of your modded control cone and a write up of how you did it.  IE: sandpaper, file, grinder?  Let's see pics!  

It is an MF engine code, hyd. lifters. Factory TD not eco, with a garrett turbo 5spd manual tranny, power steering, no air, no other optoins but heated seats. The ford ranger was an 86, 2.3 TD mitsubishi motor, 2wd. manual tranny, so it is intresting that it too had a different cut then the '85 that you found the '15.5' in.

On another fuel note I also have the cam plate from the ranger, and I have only had a change to mesure the profile with a ruler, albeit a good one, it apears to have exactly 2mm of lift, now I forget what the 1.6 and 1.9 had for comperison, but I'm sure someone knows or remembers.

AntonUK -  I have taken and mesured the amount of pin travel and have shaved the nylon washer accordingly so that it travels right to the edge of the neck of the pin.



Some more driving impressions under normal city and hiway driving there is no noticable smoke under 3/4 throttle, above that  smoke can be made at any boost level the stock turbo will produce >30psi. Top speed previously approx 170km/h indicated , now will bury the needle (200km/h) if I had enough safe road to do it with. Boost comes on much quicker then b4 with 16psi now reachable in first perviously about 13psi, 2nd will make about 23psi now and about 19 previous. All other gears could make full boost and now overshoot significantly.

In second gear if the roads are damp driving along at a constant speed then mashing the throttle as soon as the boost starts to come on results in no traction, this is with no clutch help, I would imagine 3rd would be similar except the clutch lets go first. Overall I may move the starwheel down slightly more as I never need use any more than 1/2 throttle in any normal driving situation to keep up and be ahead of trafic including merging on the freeway.

fspGTD - for you I would recomend running the 15.5 and have the starwheel screwed right to the bottom with the nylon washer shaved for full travel, and possible even shave the needle (one of my next trials since I have the spare one from the ranger) I think that you will find that your boost will build even quicker than it does (if it is not already like this) as haveing the starwheel all of the way down alows alot more fuel in earlier in the boost range creating more heat in the combustion and inturn more exhuast flow spooling up the turbo quicker. Unforturatly I can't give you any rpm data as my tach stopped working while it was parked and the alternator is still giving out signal. Must be wiring or cluster related, either way I think I will go with an optical setup like roger brown's and an autometer tach.

fspGTD - for you I would recomend running the 15.5 and have the starwheel screwed right to the bottom with the nylon washer shaved for full travel, and possible even shave the needle (one of my next trials since I have the spare one from the ranger) I think that you will find that your boost will build even quicker than it does (if it is not already like this) as haveing the starwheel all of the way down alows alot more fuel in earlier in the boost range creating more heat in the combustion and inturn more exhuast flow spooling up the turbo quicker. Unforturatly I can't give you any rpm data as my tach stopped working while it was parked and the alternator is still giving out signal. Must be wiring or cluster related, either way I think I will go with an optical setup like roger brown's and an autometer tach.

That's pretty much the setup I have already (I have the LDA setup up so that I use the full travel of the control cone and I think so that it starts kicking in about as quickly as possible), except that I am not yet using the "15.5" mitsubishi pickup cone.  I haven't actually compared it side by side yet with the cone I am using (the stock '84 Jetta 1.6lTD pin) but I suspect it may be slightly more aggresive, not 100% sure though.  It is on my list of something left to play with though.

Have you guys also compared LDA springs from different models as well?  I found that the Audi5k 5-cyl TD has a softer spring than the '84 Jetta 1.6lTD spring.  So I combined the softer (more aggressive) Audi5K spring in conjunction with the steeper-cut (more aggressive) '84 Jetta 1.6lTD cone.  Makes fuel really come on noticeably during boost.

My main hesitation with taking a file to a control cone is making a rough surface texture that the feeler pin might wear on.  The factory surface is very smooth.

I also sand down the nylon spacer until full travel of the control cone is reached.  Different models come stock with different thicknesses of nylon spacers too, but they are easy to sand down to fine-tune the thickness.  I usually just watch the wear mark on the control cone to see what range of travel is being used.  

Also I just checked my feeler pin to see if it could fall out and its definitly not going to fall out. I had some tweasers in there trying to pull, no dice so that good to know.

In all the LDA cone setups that I have seen, some spacer is required to keep the pin from getting hung up on the edge of the cone at full boost pressure... without it, excess boost pressure pushing down on the diaphragm causes the feeler needle to get hung up on the end of the control cone's machined recess, putting what could be a pretty good side load if boost pressure is high enough on that little tiny feeler needle.  If max boost is high enough and reached often enough, it might cause the feeler needle to get bent or scratched.  It is possible to sand the spacer down so that it allows the feeler needle to travel to the highest fueling point on the control cone and still make contact before the feeler needle gets hung up.

Added boost pin info provided by dieseltech about boost pin "27" being found on his 1983 Jetta TD, and "67" being found in a 1989 1.6na with altitude compensator from this thread:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1170