First, I really don't recommend this under normal circumstances. Your case seems exceptional as you are planning to change the head gasket, and I assume you are also planning to install new oil seals on the camshaft, crankshaft and intermediate shaft at that tmie.

But in the exceptional case where you want to change the timing belt only, I've got a nice "shortcut" that makes it pretty easy.

What you need (in addition to the normal tools for a timing belt change):

- heavy duty utility knife
- aviators snips (tin snips)

Get the timing belt cover off, and remove the other accessory belts. Do not loosen the tensioner on the timing belt at all yet. Take the heavy duty utility knife and hold it in the center of the timing belt. Turn the engine with a wrench and use the utility knife to split the timing belt into two timing belts. Make the split a little closer to the engine side rather than exactly in the center. Once you have split the belt entirely, turn the engine forward with both half-belts installed and position the engine at TDC with the timing marks lined up (just in case).

Now, use the aviator snips to snip the outer part of the belt (the slightly wider part that is away from the engine). Slip the new timing belt onto all the sprockets half way. You might need to slightly release the tension on the tensioner. Be very careful. If you fully release the tensioner, the partial belt will probably slip and things will fall out of alignment. You want the inner part of the old belt to hold everything in alignment as you install the new belt. Once you have the new belt half way on, snip the inner part of the original belt and slide the new belt all the way on.

I have always had a issue with changing the belt/timing the pump...

When changing/adjusting the belt do i leave the pump pin in place when applying tension?
Do i leave the camshaft lock plate in when i apply tension or do i need to remove it when applying the tension?
Once the marks are lined up how many rotations do i do? 1 full rotation or 2? i heard 2 but want to double check
(I always seem to be exact on timing marks but the flywheel is always off once i apply tension and spin it a full rotation)

first off.. headgasket in couple weeks = wait to do head gasket..

2nd..
 a set of feeler gauges, a file, a piece of barstock... pull valve cover and lock the freeken cam that way...

find a nice chrome deep well socket.. think its 11mm and use it to pin the pump pully..

3rd loosen cam gear.. loosen the bolt a 1/2 inch and then smack said cam pully with hammer.. towards shock tower and pop it off..


this is after you got the other v belts/pullies/covers off..


the only item you can not hillbilly is the dialcaliper to fine tune th epump timming.. the other stuff.. yep..

cam gets tightened last.. get close to snug.. but not tight.. this way it can spin as you tension belt..

pump.. i remove said lock.. i turn the pully to rid slack from between crank and pump.. any slack = off a tooth at min.. intermediate shaft causes slack.. so get that side of the belt snug before cam..

then...

the reason cam gear spins is to remove slack from between pump/cam and crank when tension added..

too much tension = wiped out fuel pump!!!

once cam tight turn engine 2 turns on crank.. thats 1 turn on cam.. DO NOT EVER TURN CRANK BOLT COUNTER CLOCKWISE.. it may loosen it..

The original Bentley advice had 90 for gassers and 45 for diesels... until they dropped the "twist" setting entirely in favor of the "official" tool.

After setting the belt to 12 with the official tool I can generally twist about 50-60 degrees before it starts to seriously resist.  I would say 90 is too loose.

YMMV !

i would go for loose on the belt vs tight... too loose and you will hear the belt slap the timming cover

if slappy need to give it more..

too tight bushing in pump = crap.. so for newbie listen for slap