the bellhousings are clocked diffferent, maybe the d24 is more leaned  for the long runner intake to clear the hood? but if you use the wrong bellhousing your shifter ends up way out of line.

that and the engine mount arms, I think mybe the turbo fouls d24 arms

Deezul ryan, did you use a Volvo tranny in your Jeep or did you use an adapter?

i used jeep tranny (ax5) that is actually a toyota trans,jeep slave cyl,jeep clutch and pilot bearing .volvo/vw flywheel bellhousing pressure plate  throwout bearing and the fork that operates the throwout bearing.  i made an adapter to go from the volvo bellhousing to the jeep/toyota trans

I have a 240 and 740 with the D24 and D24T engines and the D24 engines are at different angles.  I think the engine in the 740 is more upright.   Does anyone have any really good pics of the 940 with the Tic intercooler setup?  I would really like to see how the intercooler is mounted.

My buddy in germany picked up the Tic intercooler setup for me .  So far I've received all the hoses and hard tubing.  Looking closely at the D24t I was having a hard time visuallizing how it would fit.  The was no way you good use the gas turbo radiator spacers that put the rad closer to the engine..not enough room between the rad and rad fan.  Even with my 940 elec setup there's only an inch or two of space.  

I was seriously considering going to a water to air IC..I even test fitted a setup using the N/A D24 intake manifold.  I'm still undecided..I'm waiting for the factory intercooler to arrive..I didn't get the Tic intake manifold..so I have make something custom.  I picked up a N/A intake from a LT truck... it looks like the d24 N/A intake except it's slightly smaller ...lower profile.  Hopefully it'll work.

The car in general is running great...I'm not crazy about it being an automatic, even though the tranny matches the engine really well...I just love sticks.

Hi IROLL,

the volvo 740td is running great....I just converted the a/c to 134 and recharged.  I removed the original front electric a/c fan that sits in front of the a/c condenser..I need the space for the water to air intercooler radiator.  Since I'm running the electric 2 spd fan from a 940.  A problem is volvo's relay uses grounds for switching the fans on.  No problem with the main high speed fan switch..I use a regular vw coolant switch 190F approx.  My problem was switching on the low speed fan when I use the a/c.  It seems I can use the ground switch of the high pressure side...pressure rises with increased temps in the a/c, so when the refrigerant starts to get hot and I start to lose a little efficiency the switch grounds and the low speed fan comes on.  It actually works much better than I thought and it only stays on when it's needed rather than most cars which run continous.

Someone posted some really nice pics of the d24tic engine....thanks!   What I noticed is the tic rad looks to be much narrower than the a/c d24t's we have here in North America.   Looking really closely at the d24t rad I cannot see how the intercooler piping can get by.  Here in the northeast I think  the factory rad we have in the volvo is probably a little overkill.  My electric high speed setting really doesn't seem to run that much...with the a/c on..the low speed fan is enough to keep the coolant temps in check.  If I'm not running the a/c and I come off the highway into city traffic it usually never runs for more than a minute...very powerful fan.    

I was going to go h20 to air but I had to use a d24 intake and have the piping enter the intake from the firewall side of the d24 intake.  I mocked it all up and it all fit...but the D24 intake is much taller than a d24t and I didn't like how close it came to the hood.

My latest idea to get this thing intercooled is to go h20 to air IC again...but this time my buddy in germany sent me a d24 intake but it's a smaller intake..sort of in between the d24 and d24t.  I mocked it up and it looks like it will work if I remove the factory airbox and use a K&N air filter.  I'm going to try and fit it this week sometime...need to match port the intake to the ported head.

I also added the factory 740 turbo boost gauge in the instrument cluster...I calibrated it with my vdo boost gauge.  I had 3 boost gauges and 1 maxed out at 18psi, one at 20 psi, and the last at 22psi... the 22psi gauge is the one I installed along with the factory voltmeter. finally all the pods are used up.  I have a egt gauge mounted just right of the ignition...to me out of all the gauges that's the one I really watch.  Non-intercooled and at 20+psi going up a hill I can get a little over 1200F.

FYI: I'm not sure how stout the D24T motor is, but my dad had the 6cyl NA D24 (Audi/VW diesel motor) in a 1984 Volvo wagon. It was a complete heap of ***. He rebuilt the motor twice in a 1 year span (new pistons and all). Each time he rebuilt it, it got serious blowby wihtin months.

If you're considering the swap nonetheless, then try to find GAMBIT (user name) from Knoxville TN on tndubs.com. He's doing the 6 cyl Turbo diesel (from a 740 TD)swap into a Quantum Syncro wagon. He's measured it all up and it will work, but as noted by others in this thread, you'll have to do some cutting up front. I'm not sure how far along he is, or if he's still doing it, but that was his plan 2 months ago. He might be able to lend some advice if you're still into this.