Author Topic: ARP/Raceware PNs (Read 34399 times)

Chestrockwell · « **on:** June 13, 2006, 11:56:03 pm »

I'm looking for a set of head studs and hopefully main studs as well; does anyone have part numbers for either maker? They're for a 1.9 TD.
Thanks,
Chester.

mvptrukin · « **Reply #1 on:** June 15, 2006, 03:18:31 pm »

Since no one has replied to your inquiry maybe I can help a little. I have no direct exp. with the 1.9 since it wasn't used in the states, but if they use the same size cyl. head bolts as the 1.6 TD ( 12mmx 1.75 pitchx 115mm) then I can give you some info. Raceware on their website gives no part#s or applications you have to call. ARP lists no direct application for VW diesels but go to their site and look up the head stud kit for the Ford Escort with the Cosworth engine and it shows a 12mm kit , this is what most people use. You can call them for questions and they are helpful but seem to discourage directly ordering from them and will give you a list of suppliers where you live. I called Raceware in March '06 for a set of studs to use on a friends car and they were out of stock so I went the ARP route. I have since learned that passengerperformance.com a long time contributor on this site carries them but they are not shown on the website ,I would have preferred to spend my money with a VW diesel fanatic than some super store. Anyhow, this was my first exp with ARP but I have used Raceware studs on aircooleds and several 1.5 NA with 11mm studs and I believe they are better than stock head bolts. The ARP are very high quality. I hope this helps.
Pete

jackbombay · « **Reply #2 on:** June 15, 2006, 05:34:38 pm »

These are the right ones for a 99.5-03 TDI, I'm not sure if they are the same for the 1.9 though.

Chestrockwell · « **Reply #3 on:** June 15, 2006, 05:37:46 pm »

Pete, thanks for the reply. Coincedentally I just ordered Raceware main and head stud kits an hour ago :twisted: Balance and hopefully crank gear upgrade next week or two! Hey and here's a question for everyone, would a windage tray do anything below 5000rpm on this 1.9?
Chester.

935racer · « **Reply #4 on:** June 15, 2006, 05:54:11 pm »

Yeah I have switched to ARP hardware over raceware. I use the ford cosworth headstuds for the 1.6 and 1.9 idi engines as well as the tdi's. I use their mains and rod bolts as well. The thing I really like about the arps the most (besides better availability and cheaper price) is that they have a 5mm hex head on them so you can spin them in or out really easy.

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #5 on:** June 15, 2006, 10:18:41 pm »

windage tray,use that "stock" one that has the gasket embossed on it ,i think theyare like 40-45 bux,
heh they(factory)call it a "sound insulator"

Chestrockwell · « **Reply #6 on:** June 16, 2006, 12:59:10 am »

I guess I'll have to check if mine has one... never looked..

mtnsammy · « **Reply #7 on:** June 16, 2006, 10:12:23 pm »

Good info, but does anyone know what the torque numbers would be?

mvptrukin; You have already fired your motor? If so what was the pattern for torqueing the heads down. Did you still use the same as stock bolts?? 30NM 45nm 90degrees and 90 degrees??

I am almost ready to redo my head again and would like to just change out the bolts now. Thanks for any help.

jackbombay · « **Reply #8 on:** June 17, 2006, 10:16:50 am »

Quote from: mtnsammy

Good info, but does anyone know what the torque numbers would be?

Steps for proper ARP installation on the A4 TDI:
1. Unpack and clean with alcohol all the parts (gets the sticky packing grease off of them)
2. Prepare all of the bolts before starting by covering them all with the included ARP installation grease that is included. Basically, get it in all of the threads and cover all the washers, and bolts so that they look "grease grey" all over. On the nuts use a q-tip to make the threads on the inside grey with the ARP grease.
3. Remove your plastic engine cover, and crank case cover.
4. You'll need a from Part MN0812 - 12 Point Driver Set from metalnerd.com or a similar 12 mm,12 point driver to remove the factory headstuds.
(NOTE: If you are going to use the metalnerd tool, it is long and will require you remove your EGR to get the one of the headstuds out. If you're removing the EGR, then this is a great time to cleaning out your intake and install an elephant hose, or CCV catch can and an Epsilonian device.)
5. Remove the 1st headstud. You will need a breaker bar, and it comes off with a scary "snap" sound.
6. Put your the first prepared ARP headstud in (allen wrench side up) and use an allen wrench to tighten it all the way down. Don't over tighten, just a little past snug.
7. Put the prepared washer and nut on the headstud and tighten it down Using a torque wrench and bring it to 65lbs. (ARP instructions on their website say to tighten, to something less than final torque, 5 times before final toque to seat the fastener correctly. Continue following these instructions to see how this is done)
8. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench (NEVER USE YOUR TORQUE WRENCH TO LOOSEN ANYTHING YOU'LL DESTROY IT!)
9. Use the torque wrench to tighten to 70lbs.
10. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench.
11. Use the torque wrench to tighten to 70lbs.
12. 10. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench.
13. Use the torque wrench to tighten to 70lbs.
14. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench.
15. Use the torque wrench to tighten to 70lbs.
16. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench.
17. Use the torque wrench to tighten to the final 80lbs.
18. Hooray! You've installed your first headstud, now just repeat steps #5-17 over and over again until you're done.

mvptrukin · « **Reply #9 on:** June 17, 2006, 12:23:30 pm »

I read the same thing jackbombay did on the ARP website although it didn't mention it in the directions included with the studs. The pamphlet that came with the studs gives the final torque spec as specific to their studs due to tensile strength and other factors as 80 and to follow the manufactures torque pattern. So I used almost the same method jackbombay used which if I understood ARP correctly is necessary only when the fasteners are new. The 90 degree turns that Bently says are specific to new stretch bolts not the ARP head studs. Also my application was on a 1.6 TD with 12mm bolts that my friend has and so far so good.

Thanx,
Pete

jackbombay · « **Reply #10 on:** June 17, 2006, 03:23:09 pm »

Quote from: mvptrukin

I read the same thing jackbombay did on the ARP website although it didn't mention it in the directions included with the studs.

I was quite dissapointed that the directions included with the studs left out the proper torquing procedure, according to the web-site it is quite important.

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #11 on:** June 17, 2006, 04:29:16 pm »

i did all the cycling stuff, thats very important..but back a few years ago, i contacted raceware and they said torque to 50 ft pounds,or 60 if you are boostin to the moon,anymore would ruin the studs(permanent stretched)
are u guys sayin i gotta go more on the torque???

745 turbogreasel · « **Reply #12 on:** June 18, 2006, 05:48:52 am »

I talked to Randy at Raceware about a month ago, and he said tighten to 50, run to operating temp, let it cool then torque to 50 again.
EDIT: I think if you stretch the studs, you also crack your head.

jackbombay · « **Reply #13 on:** June 18, 2006, 11:42:44 pm »

50?!?!??? I know that special lube that comes with the tuds is very slippery and the threads on the studs are quite fine so the clamping force of 50 lb/ft produces a whole lot of clamping force. I am confused as to why the web-site says 80 and on the phone they say 50.... :?:

On second observatioon the website doesn;t say 80 anywhere,

But the instructions from the box do say 80,

I torqued mine to 80, no problems yet, 23 PSI later this summer (TDI)

745 turbogreasel · « **Reply #14 on:** June 19, 2006, 03:21:48 am »

Raceware specifies 50 (maybe sometimes 60) and NO special or slipery lube, only engine oil(+the special coating they put on the threads and the CNCd hardened washers)

ARP says 80 with special moly lube...
maybe the thread pitch is diferent, or their washers are less smooth.

Raceware also says use a beam torque wrench over a clicker.

Author Topic: ARP/Raceware PNs (Read 34399 times)

935racer

745 turbogreasel

745 turbogreasel