Author Topic: ADJUSTABLE BOOST COTNROL SCHEMATIC (Read 6752 times)

Dr. Diesel · « **on:** June 01, 2004, 12:04:09 pm »

Here's my system. Boost switch is adjustable up to 35 psi with an allen key.

dieselpower · « **Reply #1 on:** June 01, 2004, 07:23:17 pm »

what happens when you set the bleed valve for 10psi but the pressure switch for 20psi?
cuz i want to build one exactly like that except it would have another boost switch set at a different pressure wired into a DPDT switch to switch between the two pressures. Like normal/race
the only other way to do it that i can see is get 2 more air valves and wire them up to 2 different bleed valves.
thanks for the schematic, it helped me alot
ill try to post some pics of what im talking about if you cant picture it in your head[/img]

Dr. Diesel · « **Reply #2 on:** June 01, 2004, 07:53:59 pm »

if the bleed's set to 10 and the switch set to 20, the engine will boost up to 20, then the valve will open, and the wastegate will open, dropping the boost to 10. With that wide a split between bleed and switch, it'd probably slowly cycle between the two pressures.
I'm not sure if the extra expense/work/complication of having a two level boost system is worth it. Sure, it's cool to have a switch that you know allows your engine to make some power, or more power, but why not just make more all the time?

DieselsRcool · « **Reply #3 on:** June 03, 2004, 11:58:43 pm »

Here's some more interesting info.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/perf/wcv.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/perf/wcv-qpr.html

BlackTieTD · « **Reply #4 on:** June 23, 2004, 10:48:25 am »

you can raise the peak PSI by just adding the bleeder valve... but you will not get the advantages of the boost switch/air valve which will let the boost build quicker right up until the set boost level. its not ideal to run just the bleeder valve... but its better than running 8 or 9psi. im going to install the boost gauge tonight or tomorrow and make a stop at the fish tank store for starters.... then add the boost switch/air valve down the road.

AntonUK · « **Reply #5 on:** June 23, 2004, 02:49:50 pm »

Isnt the pressure release valve designed to act the same way?? ie only allows pressure to pass through after set boost level?

deepmud · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2004, 12:53:19 am »

I missed whatever post in the past explained this - the fish tank valve takes you to your preferred boost - say 10 psi. The boost switch blocks it, until your preferred boost of 10 psi?

I am guessing the bypass starts opening a bit at 8 or 10 psi? That it?

I just installed the bleeder valve, by itself, under the hood. Pops up to 10 psi, quick, then drops to about 9, then a bunch of fueling brings it back up to 10, if I keep it on the power.

Dr. Diesel · « **Reply #7 on:** June 29, 2004, 08:25:43 am »

the air valve blocks flow to the wastegate (allowing faster spool-up, as the wastegate won't slowly open as pressure rises) until the boost switch says "ok". After set pressure is reached and valve opens, the bleeder valve is also set to the same desired pressure and cheats the wastegate into holding that pressure.

wolfsburgnut · « **Reply #8 on:** January 20, 2007, 10:58:11 pm »

I was just reading this and wondering if I could see the schematic for it as it seems to have disappeared.
Thanks
Peter

dillenger1 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 19, 2008, 03:41:09 pm »

Has anyone run these in the cockoit?I want to see the setup for on the fly boost control.

stewardc · « **Reply #10 on:** January 19, 2008, 06:54:11 pm »

in-cockpit controller

http://agpturbo.com/product.php?productid=16157&cat=255&page=1

dillenger1 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 19, 2008, 10:10:35 pm »

See i have yet to experience the turbo diesel feel.Im building one ,but haveonly driven na cars(85 jetta,89 golf)both were diesel (of course.The TD seems like it really rare up here .i have never even seen a true original 1.6 turbo diesel.I live up by cleveland.though i have driven my dads 4bta cummins swap,and its insane!!Is it easy enough to control with pedal?

TedV · « **Reply #12 on:** January 20, 2008, 01:12:41 am »

also try a search on Dawes Device or Granger Valve. it's a simple adjustable ball and spring presure regulator pop open valve commonly purchased at Granger. I made one to take the overshoot-undershoot-overshoot-undershoot out of my TDI. Think it cost me about $10-$15.

jimfoo · « **Reply #13 on:** January 20, 2008, 10:18:59 am »

Quote from: "dillenger1"

See i have yet to experience the turbo diesel feel.Im building one ,but haveonly driven na cars(85 jetta,89 golf)both were diesel (of course.The TD seems like it really rare up here .i have never even seen a true original 1.6 turbo diesel.I live up by cleveland.though i have driven my dads 4bta cummins swap,and its insane!!Is it easy enough to control with pedal?

Libbybapa has a VNT with a cable that controls the vanes, but with a regular turbo, the lighter you are on the throttle, the less boost is it depends on the exhaust volume and temp.
VNT very nice turbo :lol: :lol: :lol:

dillenger1 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 20, 2008, 11:07:27 am »

I chose a garrett t3,I was looking into something smaller like a k14,but i dont want to be limited to 20 psi.I pretty sure ill have the fuel to go with it.The vnt seemed expensive at the time ,also its one more thing to fabricate and maintain.It seemed more reasonable to have a fixed blade turbo for some reason.

Author Topic: ADJUSTABLE BOOST COTNROL SCHEMATIC (Read 6752 times)

AntonUK

stewardc