Thermostat

[R.O.R-2.0]

Why is the cooling system @ 0 psi?

Evans is waterless coolant, and requires 0psi for it to work correctly..

[Toby]

I do not think it requires 0 pressure, just that it does not need to be pressurized to operate in the normal ranges for internal combustion engines. I do not think it would generate any significant pressure in a closed system anyway.

The over the road truckers are using it to run much hotter coolant temps thereby increasing efficiency of their big diesels. IIRC north of 250*. 1/2 a mile per gallon is big money when a fleet runs millions of miles a year.  Might be something to try in a VW diesel. Maybe there are a couple of MPGs in it for us.

[R.O.R-2.0]

i would be TERRIFIED to run my VW diesel that hot.. that wont give you much overhead before your oil temps and such get to lethal temperatures..

[Toby]

With good reason. Any water based coolant has long since flashed to steam in the hottest areas of the head forming transient pockets of steam. Steam does not cool well. Evans, on the other hand, keeps all of those areas wet, and therefor cooled.

Oil temps are an issue, but that just means synthetic oil and maybe a bigger cooler. I intend to try it in my XR4Ti and the LBGTD.

[R.O.R-2.0]

With good reason. Any water based coolant has long since flashed to steam in the hottest areas of the head forming transient pockets of steam. Steam does not cool well. Evans, on the other hand, keeps all of those areas wet, and therefor cooled.

Oil temps are an issue, but that just means synthetic oil and maybe a bigger cooler. I intend to try it in my XR4Ti and the LBGTD.

ok, you can be the test guinnea pig.. im not gonna risk it on any of my cars. 250* just sounds like its asking for problems..

i wouldnt be hesitant in a DI engine, but an IDI where the head already has a hard enough time with heat, no way..

im sure IT DOES HELP with the DI engines quite a bit. i know they have a problem maintaining heat sometimes in cold weather just because they are soo efficient.

but being the nature of the IDI, and inherent problems with getting the heat away from the pre-cups, it just doesnt sound like something i would be willing to try without knowing the exact outcome before hand..

[jimfoo]

I think I might have figured out the problem. The cooling system design. I think the system was designed to work in a certain configuration, and not having the engine in a VW, I no longer have a configuration that will work within the designed parameters. The thermostat is on the cold line, so hot and cold water have to mix. I think my system has too much capacity and cooling. Since my cold side doesn't get hot, the hot side has to get extra hot to be able to blend down to the opening temp of the thermostat. To fix this, I am going to put a remote thermostat on the hot side and take out the stock thermostat. I found I run a little cooler by completely pinching off the bypass hose, and just having the bypass water through the heaters(which are currently my "radiator" as the thermostat never opens much) the thermostat I found has a bypass that gets blocked off at temp, in and out, and a heater hose port, so should be relatively easy to retrofit. The only downside is that it is permanently encased in plastic, but is only $25. I believe this will fix all my heat problems. I get it tomorrow, and should have it on by Saturday, so I will let you all know how it goes.

[jimfoo]

Got the thermostat today. Letting the car cool down, then in it goes 

[theman53]

That looks like my air manifold that I put in my oil system...only plastic and not threaded. Will you show a pic when done. Also some of your ride. I am thinking of building one only keep it IDI.

[jimfoo]

WOOT!!!!!! I just got back from my test hill, which with the stock thermostat I would be up to 230 by the top. The temp climbed to 195, stat opened and the temp dropped to 180 and stayed between there and 190, all without my fan coming on.
As for my ride, I have pics here http://www.66rover.com/mods/mods.html, although you may have seen them from back when I was on the board a lot. I don't know that a pic of the thermostat mod will help as you can't see enough as other things are in the way. What I did was cut the upper hose between the engine and radiator and put it there. I took the stock thermostat completely out I plugged the bypass hose coming from the head, although some day it will get a fitting without a bypass. The slightly smaller fitting on the very end of the thermostat, opposite the radiator end, got hooked to the bypass fitting on the water pump. The slightly larger fitting on the thermostat went to my second heater.

[jimfoo]

BTW, the thermostat is off of a P38 Range Rover, year range of around 2000. I got it from a local shop for $25.

[theman53]

I think I might have figured out the problem. The cooling system design. I think the system was designed to work in a certain configuration, and not having the engine in a VW, I no longer have a configuration that will work within the designed parameters. The thermostat is on the cold line, so hot and cold water have to mix. I think my system has too much capacity and cooling. Since my cold side doesn't get hot, the hot side has to get extra hot to be able to blend down to the opening temp of the thermostat. To fix this, I am going to put a remote thermostat on the hot side and take out the stock thermostat. I found I run a little cooler by completely pinching off the bypass hose, and just having the bypass water through the heaters(which are currently my "radiator" as the thermostat never opens much) the thermostat I found has a bypass that gets blocked off at temp, in and out, and a heater hose port, so should be relatively easy to retrofit. The only downside is that it is permanently encased in plastic, but is only $25. I believe this will fix all my heat problems. I get it tomorrow, and should have it on by Saturday, so I will let you all know how it goes.

I wanted to bump this as I think it will be useful for those putting a VW into a non VW type cooling environment.

[madrogers]

maybe your temp gauge is not reading right. use a hand held infa. red gun type to check temps at all points. they are perry check to buy now.

[R.O.R-2.0]

maybe your temp gauge is not reading right. use a hand held infa. red gun type to check temps at all points. they are perry check to buy now.

i believe replacing his thermostat with the one pictured, solved his problems...

this is ah OLD thread BTW.. hasnt been viewed in a LONG time..

[theman53]

That is why I bumped it. I will probably use this thermo deal in the Heep TDI I am building.

[R.O.R-2.0]

That is why I bumped it. I will probably use this thermo deal in the Heep TDI I am building.

try to keep the t-stat in the original location first..

the original location is actually very good..