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Author Topic: Compound Turbocharging for Dummies  (Read 49252 times)

March 29, 2011, 11:13:31 pm

RadoTD

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Compound Turbocharging for Dummies
« on: March 29, 2011, 11:13:31 pm »
I've decided to put together some information about compound turbocharging. I'm part way through my own compound build, engine is being broken in with the compounds right now, but haven't done much testing on it yet. I'm far from an expert, but I think I have a good understanding and with input from other people, hopefully this can be a good source of info for anyone interested in going this route. My original plan was just to write up about the math behind sizing compounds, but I figured it wouldn't be too much work to compile more information about it for the FAQ
I'll start this off, but would greatly appreciate any help, extra input, etc
All of the following is at your own risk. If you spend an afternoon picking parts of your engine off of the road from misinformation on this thread, it's your fault, not mine or anyone else's. Got it? Good.
A lot of custom fabrication is involved, so you need a comfortable knowledge and access to a lot of tools. You will run into problems not listed here and you'll need to find a way around them. The forum members here are good and helped me through difficulties, but the real work is on the person building the car. It's not easy

Table of contents.

1. What is compound turbocharging and why would I do it
2. Different ways of compounding and setting it up
3. Choosing the right turbos (math heavy)
4. FAQ/links/glossary


Currently a work in progress, I'll update as I go. Please feel free to contribute or call me out on any mistakes I've made!
« Last Edit: March 29, 2011, 11:23:06 pm by RadoTD »



enough boost is when you have 3 dimple marks in the hood from the valve cover nuts..  ;D

Reply #1March 29, 2011, 11:13:54 pm

RadoTD

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Re: Compound Turbocharging for Dummies
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2011, 11:13:54 pm »
What is compound turbocharging and why would I do it?

Compound turbocharging is where instead of a single turbocharger, two turbos are placed in series with one feeding into the other. In most situations, you have a larger low pressure turbo (LP turbo) which draws in ambient air and compresses it once, pushing the air into your high pressure turbo (HP turbo), which compresses the air again and then pushes it towards your intake manifold.

Often gasoline cars, from the factory will be “twin turbo.” They are typically and engine with multiple cylinder heads and have one turbo coming off of each cylinder head. They work independently from each other and is different than compound turbocharging.

The biggest advantage to this is having a larger range of efficiency, typically extending the efficiency towards higher pressure ratios. Sizing a single turbo, you decide what you want more. A smaller turbo will have good response with minimal lag, but won't be efficient at higher boost and create too much heat. A larger turbo won't spool very well, especially at lower rpm's but won't make as much heat at higher boost/flow.
Another similar advantage is having a greater margin of safety from the surge line. When you have high PR's with relatively low flow numbers (very common on high output diesel engines), you risk what's called surging which is when pressure waves in your charge piping hit your compressor wheel and can stall it, potentially causing damage. Running compounds lowers the PR of each individual turbo, reducing the likelihood of compressor surge.

There are disadvantages as well. The biggest is complexity of the system. Individually managing how much each turbo boosts, plumbing for both (charge piping, oil feeds, oil drains) and just more to go wrong. Having space to fit them both can also be an issue, depending on your car. In my situation, I had to notch my K frame out and make a custom bracket to clear the intake of my LP turbo.
Another is that no matter how perfectly your compound setup is, it won't be able to match the power output of a single properly sized turbo. You'll have more power throughout the rpm band, but a single turbo can put a larger peak number on a dyno.
I haven't had any actual confirmation of this, but I also think that compounds will increase backpressure in your exhaust manifold, leading to higher EGT's, relative to a single turbo. Nothing backing this theory, just what I'm expecting.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2011, 11:17:42 pm by RadoTD »

enough boost is when you have 3 dimple marks in the hood from the valve cover nuts..  ;D

Reply #2March 29, 2011, 11:14:02 pm

RadoTD

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Re: Compound Turbocharging for Dummies
« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2011, 11:14:02 pm »
Different ways of compounding and setting it up

I'm not sure how in depth to go on various ways of compounding, as only one scenario has made sense to me. Here's the schematic of how I and most other people have done it. If anyone wants to write up on another way, feel free to do so and I'll add it here

Small (HP) turbo stays where it is on the exhaust manifold, I'm personally leaving the internal wastegate functional. Where your downpipe would typically exit the HP turbo, it goes to your big (LP) turbo instead. The exahust runs through the small turbo first.
On the intake side, your LP turbo draws in ambient air, compresses it and then it runs through the HP turbo, then into the motor from there. I've seen this run the other way – small turbo first, then big. I believe it spools quicker in the bottom-mid range, but you risk overspooling the small turbo as it sees a larger corrected air flow than the large turbo.

Oil feed –
Here's how I ran my oil feed to the two turbos. I brought my original hard line to a hydraulics shop and got them to match up the banjo bolt and the oil feed fittings for my turbos. The banjo I had to welt to a #4 JICM fitting, the two turbo fittings were easy to get with #4 JICM ends. The hose connecting them is a rubber hydraulic hose, rated for 300psi at 150deg Celsius. A good braided stainless line would work as well, available through your local performance auto parts store.

Oil drain -
On my 1.9L AAZ, the original turbo drains right into the block. My LP turbo was too low to drain into there, so I ran a completely separate oil drain right into a fitting I welded onto my oil pan. I used the same hydraulic hose as for my oil feed and actually looped it under my CV joint. If I raise my car up too much, I'll have trouble rubbing that oil drain on the CV, but raising a VW would simply be foolish! :)
« Last Edit: March 29, 2011, 11:18:12 pm by RadoTD »

enough boost is when you have 3 dimple marks in the hood from the valve cover nuts..  ;D

Reply #3March 29, 2011, 11:14:10 pm

RadoTD

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Re: Compound Turbocharging for Dummies
« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2011, 11:14:10 pm »
Choosing the right turbos (math heavy)

This is where the fun begins. Well, for me at least as I love crunching numbers and toying around with figures. So you've decided you want to put the work in and run compound turbos, now you just need to figure out which ones you want.
I will assume that anyone who plans to use this already knows how to read a compressor map. If you don't, google it and learn on something more basic than this. You should have a reasonable understanding, otherwise this will get ugly fast.

Disclaimer here as well. I'm not sure if this is all right... use it at your own risk. I'm surprised how much air can flow given these numbers, but I've combed it over and over and it seems good. I have no references to cite, mostly a bunch of chicken scratch in a binder that I actually wrote this off of, but I think I read something on compounding maps by TDI Meister, who's both on here and TDI Club, so I'll say that credit for a lot of it goes to him :)

First step, how much power do you hope to make? Make sure there's overhead! I'll use my engine setup as an example the whole way through here.
If I make 180whp, I'll be stoked. I use a conversion factor of 1.15, which gives me 207hp at the crank. So, I'm going to figure out how much air it takes me to get 220hp crank. That would be 191 at the wheels which for now is more than enough power for me. All of this being at 4500rpm
I'm half addicted to a website called not2fast.com with a great calculator for figuring out power numbers if you know what info to give it. The most difficult figures to know are BSFC, AFR and VE. Here's a table of values that I use. I came upon these values from pulling my own sources and if anything seems off, I would gladly be corrected!

AFR
17.5:1

BSFC
<4000rpm - .34
4000-4500rpm - .37
>4500rpm - .40

VE
<3500rpm - 80%
3500-4000rpm – 75%
4000-4500rpm - 70%
>4500rpm – 65%


I realize stoich for diesel is around 14.5:1, but you'll be puking black smoke like mad and likely melting something at that point. I remember reading somewhere that TDI's begin to smoke at about 18.5:1 and IIRC, IDI's burn better due to the prechamber being more efficient than the TDI's design. With that, I expect a haze at 17.5:1
The BSFC I averaged out from a myriad of sources. Who knows if I'm right, but the numbers seem to make sense.
These VE numbers may seem low, but given the feel of these engines, either the BSFC or VE definitely tank after 4000rpm

After all of that, I was left with a manifold pressure of 35psi, pressure ratio of 3.52, mass flow of 23.6lb/min, 323CFM. Also, a BMEP of 332.6. Fairly high for my compression ratio (~20.5:1), but nothing stupid. Also, for reference, 220hp at 4500rpm is 255ftlbs of torque.. not bad for a 2400lb car!
http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml?FeetASL=370&Tamb=25&Bore=79.5&Stroke=95.5&nCyl=4&RPM=4500&VE=70&Boost=35&Ec=75&Eic=80&PdropIC=1.5&TambIC=25&wiPercentMethanol=50&wiRate=100&wiTemp=21&SFC=0.37&AFR=17.5&maxInjectorDutyCycle=85
Now, the first turbo to size up is the LP turbo. It's drawing ambient air, so it's fairly simple to figure that one out. I had spent a while looking and kept going to smaller and smaller LP turbos, realizing that some monster down there isn't what I really want. I ended up going for a fairly simple option, a K24-2470. It's reasonably efficient up to a PR of 2.1, so I'll use that as it's PR. In a compound setup, the PR's multiply, so 3.52/2.1 leaves a PR of 1.68 for my HP turbo at max boost (35psi).
Not2fast.com has lots of compressor maps available, including one for a K24-2470. It's flow is actually rated in m^3/s, not lb/min, but using not2fast's simple conversion, (23.6lb/min)/162=.146m^3/s. Plotted on the compressor map puts it right where I want it to be at full boost. Now the easy one is done.

HP turbo becomes a little bit tougher because compressor maps are measured with ambient air as the input, but our HP turbo is taking in already compressed air. I'm still using the K14 that my engine came with so I only had to buy one turbo. Fortunately everything is nice and linear, so the equation to correct the mass flow isn't too tough. m2=m1*sqrt((T/Tmap)/(P/Pmap))
Temperature is the inlet temp divided by the temp used on the map, both converted to degrees Kelvin. Pressure is absolute inlet pressure divided by pressure used on the map, in whatever unit you want, as long as they're the same.
Temperature would be very difficult to calculate, so I just use the not2fast calculator from above, change the boost to a PR of 2.1 and use the temperature that spits out; 16.2Psi giving me an outlet temp of 126*C. Now, lets throw those numbers into our equation.

m2=m1*sqrt((T/Tmap)/(P/Pmap))
m2=23.6*sqrt(((126+273)/293)/(30.9/14.7)
m2=23.6*sqrt(1.362/2.102)
m2=23.6*sqrt(.6480)
m2=23.6*.805
m2=19.0

So, plotting 19.0lb/min, which converts back to .117m^3/s with a PR of 1.68 once again puts me very near the middle of the compressor map, even a bit low, just on the edge of the 76% island. Before I actually figured it all out, I was afraid my turbos would be too small, but assuming all this math is correct, I have tons of overhead!

One problem I've run into is that I don't know how to control a turbo by PR. I've been planning to run the K14's wastegate as the difference between my intermediate charge pipe and intake manifold. The problem I run into there is that for 35psi, that's a differential of 19psi. Meaning, for my K14's wastegate to open, it'll need to be making 19psi on top of what the K24 is making. That's not so bad once it's already getting compressed air, but that's a PR of 2.3 drawing from ambient which is off the compressor map. If anyone knows a way around this, please let me know, otherwise I'll have to do testing on it and figure something out. I only plan to run 30psi at the manifold for now at least, so it's not a huge problem, the K14 set at 15psi isn't too bad, but I'd like to control it better if I could.

Just out of curiosity, I extrapolated the numbers a bit to see what I could actually do. If I come across a good deal on a TDI long block and a cummins 4BT pump, I'll probably swap that in and run some big numbers. Using the link above, changing the boost up to 50psi, I get 278hp at the crank, 30.0lb/min flow and PR of 4.4. K24 would see PR of 2.3 @ .185m^3/s and K14 would see PR 1.91 @ .144m^3/s. Both of those are still near 75% eff! VERY close to the limit of the K24 though. To go higher than that, throwing the K24 on as the HP turbo and something capable of 35-40lb/min at PR of ~2.3 would put you in the 300+whp range at 60psi. Although, the TDI may flow better, so you might be able to do in the 300's on 50psi but bigger flow numbers. Garret GT30R maybe?
« Last Edit: April 03, 2011, 12:34:00 am by RadoTD »

enough boost is when you have 3 dimple marks in the hood from the valve cover nuts..  ;D

Reply #4March 29, 2011, 11:14:18 pm

RadoTD

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Re: Compound Turbocharging for Dummies
« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2011, 11:14:18 pm »
FAQ/links/glossary

Below is a glossary of terms I like to use, I'll typically use their short form above, but I'll try to reference everything here

Cold side – Compressor/intake side of a turbo. Doesn't get nearly as hot as the turbine/exhaust side of the turbo, hence being called the cold side
Hot side – Turbine/exhaust side of a turbo. Gets stinkin' hot from all the exhaust gas running through it
HP Turbo – High pressure turbo, placed between the LP Turbo and intake manifold. Generally the smaller of the two turbos
JICM – JIC Male, a common flared hydraulic fitting
LP Turbo – Low pressure turbo, draws in ambient air and pressurizes it into your HP turbo. Generally the larger of the two turbos
PR – Pressure ratio. A ratio of how much air is compressed. Easily calculated as (pressure out) + (pressure in) / (pressure in). Pressure in is absolute pressure, often ambient 14.7psi
« Last Edit: March 29, 2011, 11:19:15 pm by RadoTD »

enough boost is when you have 3 dimple marks in the hood from the valve cover nuts..  ;D

Reply #5March 29, 2011, 11:14:27 pm

RadoTD

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Re: Compound Turbocharging for Dummies
« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2011, 11:14:27 pm »
Placeholder (post count padding! :O)

enough boost is when you have 3 dimple marks in the hood from the valve cover nuts..  ;D

Reply #6March 29, 2011, 11:28:11 pm

truckinwagen

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Re: Compound Turbocharging for Dummies
« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2011, 11:28:11 pm »
very cool, looking forward to some info here, I will add my experiences with compound super/turbocharger setups when I get mine running as well.

gotta go find some weldable steel fittings to build a turbo manifold first though...

-Owen
83 Opel Kadett Diesel

Reply #7April 03, 2011, 12:29:26 am

RadoTD

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Re: Compound Turbocharging for Dummies
« Reply #7 on: April 03, 2011, 12:29:26 am »
Any input you have would be great, Owen!

I got the math section put up. If anyone's having trouble with it, let me know and I can help out.... hopefully it's written clearly enough. For the first time I figured out what the limits of my K14/K24 combo would be. Very, very nice ;)

enough boost is when you have 3 dimple marks in the hood from the valve cover nuts..  ;D

Reply #8May 16, 2011, 05:00:25 pm

zukgod1

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Re: Compound Turbocharging for Dummies
« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2011, 05:00:25 pm »
Cool info.

I'm currently gathering parts for a build.

Planning on using a k03 for the small turbo and a k26 for the big one. From the experience I have with the 2 turbos as singles I think it will work quite well at my elevation.

Thinking I'll set the k03 to open the waste gate at about 8-10psi and the k26 is non gated..  Stock 1.6 (kinda) MLS HG ARP head studs and some match porting is all I'm planning with a 3" turbo back exhaust.

dan

99 Golf TDI (now CNG powered) , 82 TD Caddy

 

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