Help identifying a 1.6D motor

[Hiho]

I have a motor that I need help identifying. Its a 1.6D with 12mm head bolts and mechanical tappets. It came to australia from canada in a Mk1 caddy. For some bizzare reason, there is no engine no. or prefix. Can anyone help me identify this motor (ie, is it a ME, MF CY etc..) What additional information do you need to identify it (castings etc)?

Thanks!

[NintendoKD]

could be a swapped industrial motor like from a welder or something?  That would b my first guess.  Someone had a bad engine and instead of rebuilding used a readily available work engine instead. ) miles and thousands of hours at low work loads sounds like a winner to me.

[Hiho]

The main reason that im asking is that i have freaked out a bit about the rod bolt situation. I would like to know if i need to replace them, and if so, which rod bolts do i buy to replace them?

Cheers,

Matt

[theman53]

If the engine is operating fine and the rod bolts haven't been messed with it will probably live a long healthy life. If not here is from the FAQ on the ARP brand bolts. Stands for automotive racing parts and you can google them to see what they do, but here are the part numbers for all IDI engines* I think all *
ARP part #s
                                                                     
Head Studs..........................251-4701                   
Main Studs...........................204-5402                     
Con Rod bolts 1.6 and 1.7......104-6002                   
Trans ring gear bolt kit 020 ...204-3001                     
Oil pump bolts.......................661-1014   

I am no poster child for ARP, but I do have all but the main studs and oil pump bolts in my build engine. Raceware makes pretty much the same stuff, but ARP is cheaper and easier for ME to get my hands on.                 

[VW Smokr]

Hiho: Seems like VW USA was having the 'factory rebuilt' motors done in Canada, at least for a while. They are identified by a metallic foil tag that can fall off after some use, leaving no specific engine model # markings; another possible twist for your 'mystery' engine i.d. maze.

theman53: Thanks for the ARP number references.

J.R.
SoCal

[Hiho]

Thats exactly what this motor had on it when i bought it, a metal tag glued to the block stating that it had been rebuilt by VW Canada! So the tag would have had the motor no. on it? damn, I think that thing would have dissolved in the hot tank

The reason that I want to identify the motor, and hence the type of rod bolts is that the motor has been rebuilt for turbo duty. Im about to put the motor in my Mk1 but then i read Smokin Eddys post about his motor throwing a rod through the block. Given my outlay (new pistons, thermal coatings, oil squirters, etc) I dont really want to be stressing about catastrophic failure every time i rev it above 3000 rpm.

[Hiho]

i have a feeling that its either a CR or JP (1.6D with mechanical tappets). Would I be right to assume that one is the 11mm head bolt and the other is 12mm?

[theman53]

Right in between and above the 3&4 injectors is a plate that should have MF, ME, CK, JP, etc whatever you engine code is cast into the block. It is right below the head gasket.


Right under the lemonade bottle and above the 2 tapped bolt holes in that pic.

[Rabbit on Roids]

Thats exactly what this motor had on it when i bought it, a metal tag glued to the block stating that it had been rebuilt by VW Canada! So the tag would have had the motor no. on it? damn, I think that thing would have dissolved in the hot tank

The reason that I want to identify the motor, and hence the type of rod bolts is that the motor has been rebuilt for turbo duty. Im about to put the motor in my Mk1 but then i read Smokin Eddys post about his motor throwing a rod through the block. Given my outlay (new pistons, thermal coatings, oil squirters, etc) I dont really want to be stressing about catastrophic failure every time i rev it above 3000 rpm.

Smokey Eddys engine didnt blow up from the rod bolts or anything like that. the IM shaft bearings seized up. and when the IM shaft cant turn the oil pump, you lose oil pressure.  you need oil pressure or else the engine isnt going to last very far (as we have seen with Eds engine) this had nothing to do with his rod bolts.

i run a stock 1.5 long block with 25 psi boost. completely stock everything.. i dont have rods flying thru my block, and my diesel turns more RPMs than my GTI, and it hits the limiter at 6250 rpms. my rabbit revs higher than that on a regular basis. rod bolts are fine. my bolts are even re used stock rod bolts. just gotta torque them properly..

[Hiho]

Thanks guys!

Unfortunately, there is no engine no. and no prefix stamped on the block below the lemonade bottle. Its absolutely blank. What I do have is a part no. for the block and the date of manufacture - 068.103.011 cast on 13.10.83

[theman53]

can you get a pic of it? Mine I had to wire brush to find when it was dirty and then guess at what it said.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Thanks guys!

Unfortunately, there is no engine no. and no prefix stamped on the block below the lemonade bottle. Its absolutely blank. What I do have is a part no. for the block and the date of manufacture - 068.103.011 cast on 13.10.83

I have a CR code 1.6D block without TD oil squirters, with that part number, that was cast in Brazil. Where did you find that date code on the block ??

It would have to be 13th day October 1983 - making it a 1984 production year unit. Very strange it has no block code stamping, but never say never.

[Hiho]

The block has been in the hot tank, and is spotlessly clean. There is no engine no. stamped on the block, only the casting no. and date

Good news though, i have a photo of the motor before rebuilding it and i can make out the engine no. on the VW Canada rebuild plate. Unfortunately there is no prefix

[Hiho]

VW Audi symbols Germany
068.103.011
LH D 2
13.10.83


Absolutely nothing!

[MJF]

Itīs just 1,6D from 1983, you no need to worry of codes. If it has squirters, itīs turbodiesel, if not itīs NA. Thatīs it.