Hi everyone,
I thought I'd share my project with you. I have been contemplating building a Quattro turbo diesel for a couple of years, and since the lease on my Subaru is up at the end of summer, I decided it's time to get moving.
I've been trying to decide between using a 2.0TD (engine code DE) that I have, or buying a 2.4D (engine code AAB) and turbo charging that. I came across a factory remanufactured AAB with a new block, and jumped on it. This engine was originally for the Eurovan (T4), so isn't a direct fit into a sedan application. Fortunately, Audi did put a 2.4D (engine code 3D) into their European-only 100 sedans. This engine is virtually identical to the AAB, so I was able to import certain parts, namely the valve cover and the rear coolant flange, to make the job a little easier. The AAB in the Eurovan application also used the turbo oil return line hole in the block for the dipstick hole. Since I'll be using this hole for the turbo, I needed to drill a new hole in the mounting boss on the other side of the block. A friend suggested I bolt a piece of scrap metal to the under side of the block on my DE engine, and drill from the original dipstick hole into the scrap metal to make a jig. Then just reverse the process to drill into the AAB block. It worked perfectly.
I'm shooting for around 200 HP/325 ft./lbs., and feel pretty good about turbocharging the AAB, since it is very similar to the DE and the AAZ. For starters, it has oil cooling jets under the pistons and the same exhaust valves as the AAZ. It doesn't use the same pistons and rods as the AAZ, but another forum member purportedly ran AAB pistons in an application that exceeded 100 HP/L., so I'm not too worried about them. The other upside to the AAB rods is that they're lighter than the AAZ rods (huge end caps), and should be able to turn a few more RPMs safely. The AAB block itself has also been used in 20-Valve gas applications up to 1200 HP, so I'm not worried about the block either. I'm doing all of the usual upgrades to help make reliable power (e.g. Giles pump, MLS head gasket, ARP fasteners, etc.)
Three of the exhaust stud holes came with time-serts. Upon removing the studs to install stainless fasteners, I discovered a few more holes with bad threads, so I decided to repair all of the holes with time-serts.
If anyone is interested in my observations of what is replaced on a factory reman'd engine, I'd be happy to list the details.
I know you guys are into naked engines, so on to the pics.
Host vehicle - 1989 Audi 100 Quattro, 79K miles:
Stock engine as removed from crate:
Drilling new dipstick hole - 9.8mm drill bit from McMaster-Carr worked perfectly:
Installing new time-serts into exhaust stud holes:
Anyway, I hope to have the head back on this week, and possibly the old engine removed from the car next weekend.