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Author Topic: IN-CAR Crank Sprocket Conversion from 1.6 or AAZ to TDI  (Read 4583 times)
libbybapa
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« on: February 08, 2009, 11:57:16 AM »

I'm happy to now offer an in-car modification of the crank nose of the IDI engines to accept the updated sprocket of the TDI engines.  The cost for the service is $175 in labor.  A minimum of parts would also include the new sprocket and the valve cover gasket.  It is a perfect time to swap out the timing belt and tensioner as the timing belt needs to be removed.  It is also a perfect time to change the front crank seal, intermediate shaft seal and cam seal as they are all easily accessible.  If additional time is spent swapping seals, then the labor cost would increase accordingly.  

Due to the more robust design of the TDI sprocket, it is a nice upgrade for any of the older engines, but especially attractive for anyone interested in running the serpentine belt setup.  The serpentine setup is especially attractive for TD into Vanagon conversions as it allows all of the accessories including A/C compressor and Power Steering to be mounted using stock bracketry and fit under the engine lid without modification.

I would also mention that I am happy to offer my mechanic services here in Flagstaff, specializing in the VW IDI engines/vehicles and vanagons or vangaon diesel conversions.  Please post any general questions regarding either, and PM to make personal arrangements.

This service is really only of advantage to someone who's engine and crankshaft are still in the car and you are close enough to me to drive the car here.  If the crankshaft is out of the car, then any local machinist can accomplish the task for less than shipping would of the crank would cost.  If the crank is out and you live far away, get a new TDI sprocket and bring the crank and sprocket to any moderately competent machinist.  Tell him to true up the end of the crank and to make the new TDI keyway a mild press fit opposite the existing one.  The exact placement of the keyway is not even critical as both cam and pump are infinitely adjustable.

Andrew
« Last Edit: November 23, 2009, 06:55:43 AM by libbybapa » Logged

Andrew A. Libby

IN-CAR Crank Sprocket Conversion from 1.6 or AAZ to TDI

If there are two ways to interpret something I say and one of them gets your knickers in a twist, then I meant the other one.
DonkeyWorx
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« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2009, 04:32:05 PM »

Andrew,

If you are ever up in Oregon, please give me a heads up via email.
my email: vmueller@networkconcepts.org

I would be more than happy to have you give me a hand converting my AAZ to the newer pulley.

Thanks!
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libbybapa
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« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2009, 08:06:51 PM »

Will do.  I lived in Oregon for a year about 15 years ago.  Beautiful  country.  I haven't been back since, but would love to some time.

Andrew
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Andrew A. Libby

IN-CAR Crank Sprocket Conversion from 1.6 or AAZ to TDI

If there are two ways to interpret something I say and one of them gets your knickers in a twist, then I meant the other one.
expanty09
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« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2009, 06:36:10 AM »

do you always have those in stock, or always available to order ...
i might be interested to buy one for next summer if im done with my rx7 race car.
thanks,
Bruno
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libbybapa
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« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2009, 06:57:58 AM »

This service is really only of advantage to someone who's engine and crankshaft are still in the car and you are close enough to me to drive the car here.

Considering that your location is posted as Germany it might not make sense for me to be the one to do the work.  The sprockets and bolts are available from the dealership or many parts suppliers.  If the engine is not yet installed in the vehicle, then pull the crank and have any local machinist modify it for you.
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Andrew A. Libby

IN-CAR Crank Sprocket Conversion from 1.6 or AAZ to TDI

If there are two ways to interpret something I say and one of them gets your knickers in a twist, then I meant the other one.
boxer246
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« Reply #5 on: November 30, 2009, 12:35:09 PM »

Andrew,
I am rebuilding an AAZ which was sitting around for some time with no sprocket bolted to the crank.  During that time, it seems the threads inside the end of the crank became so rusty they are half gone.  Any suggestions for repairing those threads?  Or is my crank toast?  I emailed a local machine shop that I know has done some VW diesel machine work, but they havent got back to me yet.  Obviously if the threads were repaired they would have to be pretty strong to hold all the torque that is put on the bolt.  So, I kind of ruled out Helicoil.....but also I dont even think they make one that long.  Any suggestions you might have would be appreciated.
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Ash
'81 VW Caddy 1.6 now a TD
'88 Vanagon (building a AHU M-TDI)
libbybapa
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« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2009, 02:11:59 PM »

Wow, was it sitting outside in the weather without the bolt in place?  I find it surprising that it would rust out the threads to that degree.  You can't just clean them by chasing them with a tap?  If not, then I would think the right fix would be to have it welded, drilled and re-tapped and that expense would be more than the cost of a good crank.
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Andrew A. Libby

IN-CAR Crank Sprocket Conversion from 1.6 or AAZ to TDI

If there are two ways to interpret something I say and one of them gets your knickers in a twist, then I meant the other one.
boxer246
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« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2009, 07:11:19 PM »

Yeah it must have been sitting without the bolt.  And yes, they are really gone. Actually only the threads to about the first half of the total depth of the hole are gone.  Guess its time to search for a good used crank.
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Ash
'81 VW Caddy 1.6 now a TD
'88 Vanagon (building a AHU M-TDI)
theman53
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« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2009, 06:38:42 AM »

If I recall the first part of the crank doesn't have threads.
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libbybapa
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« Reply #9 on: December 01, 2009, 08:36:11 AM »

Here is a picture of the threads of an undamaged crank:

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Andrew A. Libby

IN-CAR Crank Sprocket Conversion from 1.6 or AAZ to TDI

If there are two ways to interpret something I say and one of them gets your knickers in a twist, then I meant the other one.
boxer246
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« Reply #10 on: December 01, 2009, 11:12:00 AM »

Here's mine.  Sorry for the crappy pic.
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Ash
'81 VW Caddy 1.6 now a TD
'88 Vanagon (building a AHU M-TDI)
libbybapa
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« Reply #11 on: December 01, 2009, 01:01:41 PM »

Buy two new crank bolts.  Install the sprocket (using a crank holding tool) and keep cranking on one of the bolts until it either snaps or the remainder of the threads pull out/strip.  If the bolt breaks, then have the end of the crank trued up and the TDI slot machined in it and run it.  If the threads pull out, then you have a nice door stop.
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Andrew A. Libby

IN-CAR Crank Sprocket Conversion from 1.6 or AAZ to TDI

If there are two ways to interpret something I say and one of them gets your knickers in a twist, then I meant the other one.
boxer246
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« Reply #12 on: December 01, 2009, 02:09:17 PM »

Hmmmm.....that sounds like a plan.  I wish I could get a pic of where the "good" threads start, but the camera wont focus too well.  I have a sneaking suspicion that they wont hold.  I saw in one of your other posts you were looking at time-serts for your injector thread repair....think that might work for this?  Its such a long hole, I bet they dont make one that long.  I'll have to do a little research.
I believe the bolt is 14x1.50?
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Ash
'81 VW Caddy 1.6 now a TD
'88 Vanagon (building a AHU M-TDI)
MoparEd
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« Reply #13 on: December 01, 2009, 03:02:40 PM »

Hmmmm.....that sounds like a plan.  I wish I could get a pic of where the "good" threads start, but the camera wont focus too well.  I have a sneaking suspicion that they wont hold.  I saw in one of your other posts you were looking at time-serts for your injector thread repair....think that might work for this?  Its such a long hole, I bet they dont make one that long.  I'll have to do a little research.
I believe the bolt is 14x1.50?


I had the tdi pully mod done to my crank yesterday. The treads on the bolt were stripped and it looked bad inside the crank. I thought I might have to replace the motor (or crank), but Giles put a tap in the crank and it cleaned up real nice and was able to fit the new bolt in and set it to spec. Had a good scare, but its all fine now. Maybe try that, run a proper size tap and see if it works out for you too

Good Luck
Ed
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burn_your_money
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« Reply #14 on: December 01, 2009, 03:58:56 PM »

Yes it is M14X1.50
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Tyler
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