Author Topic: m-TDI Swap! Into MK2 Jetta  (Read 28152 times)

Reply #30October 25, 2007, 09:56:45 pm

hillfolk'r

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« Reply #30 on: October 25, 2007, 09:56:45 pm »
better late than never i guess
this is regarding cleaning out the egr crap
i treated it just like an old 2 stroke dirt bike  muffler that  needed to be "decoked"
i used a propane torch and various rifle brushes with good success on the intake
then  back  again with the rifle brushes and a vacuum cleaner
backand forth,,heat+scrape+vacuum
since i was doing  a timing belt at the same time,i pulled the cam and used the torch in the ports too
of course dont get stupid and leave it in there for 15 mins on each port
it made some nasty smoke,but worked good
dont worry about the flames and smoke that shoot back out the port
wear a leather glove and place a piece of sheet metal against the firewall

i also used an air compressor with a blow gun after that
i attached a piece of that hard 1/4 inch plastic line and blew out the ports
 the line could scrape against the walls and help remove more carbon without damaging anything
Throttle cables ftw

Reply #31December 12, 2007, 05:09:53 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #31 on: December 12, 2007, 05:09:53 pm »
got my injectors done with .216's from Giles :) he said they all popped pretty good so i'm glad.

now its time to slap the head onto the block.  quick question:  can i use assembly lube on the head stud threads?  they say to use regular engine oil.  is assembly lube basically the same? would it change torque values at all?

thanks!


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Reply #32December 12, 2007, 05:47:08 pm

jimfoo

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« Reply #32 on: December 12, 2007, 05:47:08 pm »
I would think it might change the value, so I'd just use the engine oil and specified value for that.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #33January 18, 2008, 03:18:59 am

Baselyne

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« Reply #33 on: January 18, 2008, 03:18:59 am »
Quote from: "jtanguay"
Numbers for total seal rings!

1.75mm 1st ring

2.00mm 2nd ring

3.00mm oil ring

bore size 79.50mm
:twisted:


IM WONDERING ARE THESE THE RIGHT RING SIZES FOR A 1.6lTD ENGINE?

WHAT DID YOU END OF PAYING, i READ SOMEWHERE YOU HAD TO SEND BACK YOUR OLD RINGS!?

WHAY'S THAT IF YOU DONT MIND ME ASKING!
cheers

Reply #34January 18, 2008, 09:37:25 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #34 on: January 18, 2008, 09:37:25 am »
Those are for the 1.9. The 1.6 has a smaller bore, 76.5 I believe. He sent his rings so that Total Seal could modify his Goetz ring to be gapless. You can just buy their ring set or even the gapless  2nd ring only.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #35December 26, 2008, 12:38:43 am

jtanguay

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« Reply #35 on: December 26, 2008, 12:38:43 am »
well long time since an update on this, and i wanted to take some video's & pics of the progress, but i didn't   :(

anyways.. the motor is in the car and it runs EXCELLENT aside from what sounds like possibly a bit too much advance, but i don't mind as long as it won't hurt the motor.  i also bought a kevlar clutch upgrade as i'm sticking with a mk2 transmission for now.  (will go TDI box if i can get one for a decent price)

so far the kevlar clutch needs to be broken in, and can easily be slipped.  i've stuck with the K24 turbo, and can barely build 10 psi with close to, but not even 1000F pre-turbo EGT's without slipping the clutch (gently accelerating-5th gear) so the motor is definitely making the power.  just sucks because it will take about 1000km of driving to fully break in the clutch...

the total seal rings seem to be doing their job as there is virtually no blowby.  i also like the 1.9 block because it has a vent for the bottom end so it won't push the dipstick tube up like on the 1.6  :roll: and considering the rings aren't even broken in yet, it seems to have great compression (although will test at a later date to confirm numbers) as she started on the first catch WITHOUT glowplugs at -3C (weather network, actual temp might be varied) and no lumpy idle, or stumbling!

AT LAST!!! no more rough starting 1.6 engine for me!!!  with glowplugs, the engine starts up sooo smooth... even better than my 1.6 in the summertime!!!  and whats better, is that it seems that the colder the motor is, the quieter it is at idle and even driving.  which also leads me to suspect possibly a bit too much advancement (colder fuel-less timing advancement, or is it the other way around?).

the engine was timed to .90, and on the very first try fired right up with absolutely no hiccups.  truly a first rate build.  i love it when things go right! i consider this a full rebuild minus the bore & new pistons, due to them still being within spec.

the oil is currently being filtered with the FS-2500 bypass filter, and the pressure drop seems to be acceptable - hot idle is around 15 psi. approx 120km on the oil, and on the dipstick it looks the same as it did when it was first poured in.  ANYONE WHO OWNS A DIESEL SHOULD OWN ONE OF THESE FILTERS!!!  i was going to change the oil after 1000km of driving for the sake of the break in period, but now i'm not... i'm simply going to have oil analysis done at a much cheaper cost - about $40 for an oil change (rotella & bosch filter, not even synthetic...), or approx $20 for oil analysis...  the filter system pays for itself after a few years, and will continue to pay for itself just in the way it protects the motor, which was a huge investment for me.  once i switch to synthetic, my oil change interval could be as high as 3-5 years.  which only further increases the savings.  i would estimate bypass filter changes at about 15,000km or more as they are built for heavy machinery dumping crazy amounts of soot into the oil.  they also remove water, a leading cause of acid buildup in the oil  :wink: lets do some math here.  $70 for a synthetic oil change which lasts 5 years, but filters are approx $25, and if changed every 15,000km will add up to 7, and we will add another $70 for synthetic top ups for filter changing for a grand total of $315.  or 20 non synthetic oil changes if you follow the recommended 3 month OCI.  20 x $40(rotella & filter) = $800.  this doesn't even take into account the disposal, the aggravation, frustration, mess, etc.  bypass filter = about $300.  so using the more expensive, and better oil (amsoil or equivalent) you're even saving money than using that okay, but not perfect oil that gets quickly contaminated with soot particles.  so i'll just leave that at that! (that is how i rationalized the purchase...  :lol:) oh i forgot about the full flow filters... they recommend these be changed every 80,000km as i will be using the amsoil EA filter (filters down to 15 microns, and should last to 15,000 without the bypass filter)

i have to give andy2 and his dad a lot of credit to the successful completion of this build (i had them install it - best decision i ever made).  they caught some critical errors which would have completely ruined it.  first, the crank sprocket wasn't fitting snug on the snout (had to be welded up and then filed down-this could have lead to a failed crank bolt eventually) and the engine rebuild shop put in one of the intermediate shaft bearings wrong (some scoring... could have been my installing the shaft and trying to turn it though) the int shaft bearings were glyco, which apparently need to be reamed.  some clevite bearings were installed properly and did not require reaming.  the timing belt tensioner issue was solved by using the steel cover from a 1.9 which used the newer style tensioner, and marking my steel cover, and then notching it out.  simply brilliant! these guys are top notch! i would recommend them to anyone needing work on their diesels. especially getting the crank nose fixed!

i'm going to be taking some video's, as well as popping by Giles' shop to show him how its running.  if this clutch ever holds the power, i'll take it to the dyno  :twisted:  

another thing about this pump...  i asked Giles to give me a retarded idle, but ONLY for idle (for really) and so he did... the idle is pretty quiet... in fact it was more quiet than a passat diesel i heard tonight...  BUT when i'm on the go pedal, it comes alive with all that diesel clattery goodness we've all come to love  :twisted: the main reason for this is so i can let the car idle and not wake everyone up. only when im driving away.. :lol: !!


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Reply #36December 26, 2008, 10:48:36 am

foxracer1

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« Reply #36 on: December 26, 2008, 10:48:36 am »
Sounds awesome long time coming. Lets see pics of it! Vids of it running. How much do you have wrapped up in the build? I plan to do this since my 1.6 needs a major overhaul.
84 4dr Rabbit 1.6 N/A sold to friend
86 Jetta TD getting raced out AHU 02A
98 Jetta TDI Malone tune stg 3
91 S10 305 TPI T56
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Now offering turbo rebuilds. HP or stock. Any turbo you have i can rebuild it for ya.
Reseal injection pumps PM for det

Reply #37December 26, 2008, 12:25:26 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #37 on: December 26, 2008, 12:25:26 pm »
Quote from: "foxracer1"
Sounds awesome long time coming. Lets see pics of it! Vids of it running. How much do you have wrapped up in the build? I plan to do this since my 1.6 needs a major overhaul.


i was quoted about $4400 to rebuild my 1.6TD (fully refreshed with new pistons, all new bearings, all head work, but same injectors and same injector pump...)

so i have probably $5500-$6000 wrapped into this build, but its highly worth it.  

payed $1200 for the bare longblock - no accessories, just brackets, w/p, + vac pump

the rest was for
- hot tank & hone block + magnaflux
- polish crank
- all new bottom end & int shaft bearings
- all new seals
- new geotz rings with totalseal 2nd ring (modified geotz ring)

- head planed flat (very very good job)
- head hot tanked to remove EGR buildup
- new guides, seals, lifters, re-used old valves (still in good shape, no contact with pistons)
- ARP head studs - ok this is another thing... the racewares i bought were complete ***!!!!  andrew (andy2) tried torquing them to deform the head gasket, and it wasn't working... he got to about 80 ft/lbs and the gasket was still not squishing, so he went some more and the threads gave out.  COMPLETE ***!!!!!!! ok back on track now  :lol:
- head was pressure tested and ok

- EGT gauge from aircraftspruce
- fs-2500 bypass filter *best investment you could ever make on a diesel
- kevlar clutch with stage 1 pressure plate and lightened flywheel.. it should hold about 150 ft/lbs at least, but for now it can't even hold what my old 1.6 clutch was holding.
- injectors refreshed with .216 nozzles & calibrated/tested by Giles
- and the performance injection pump from Giles. to top it all off.
***forgot to mention that theres misc costs (clutched alt pulley for ex) as well as paying andrew for the absolutely immaculate job he and his father did.  i'm extremely impressed!!!

this morning i went to start it and it chugged, but i saw some air in the lines... so i'll change the fuel filter and possibly rip out the water separator.

now you don't need to go all out like me to have a decent running car, but for less than $2000 more than i was quoted, i now have a torquey beast which will last a long long time!  if anything, i would recommend at least going with total seal, and the fs-2500 filter.

the injector nozzles are the cheap ones though... so i will run them until they start smoking and possibly upgrade to bosio or just run the stock .205's.  (currently running the .216's)

this was more of a learning experience than anything.  i lucked out with the injection pump i bought from vdubfun (check earlier page for pics) as it was TDI ready, for cheap. getting the LDA and tuning wasn't too bad either.  mTDI pumps are still a bit of a black art, but mine seems to run just fine.  it's really interesting how it idles so quiet (no diesel clack) when its cold.  that could be attributed to lack of fuel pressure though... those bugs will have to be worked out.  i especially like having the cold start lever functionality with this pump (idle speed boost & timing advance).  i could probably start at -30C or even -40C (with synthetic oil) without issue.

i'm going to take a video shortly so stay tuned!


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Reply #38December 26, 2008, 01:55:26 pm

snakemaster

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« Reply #38 on: December 26, 2008, 01:55:26 pm »
some nice work you have done there ,looking forward to see the pics
Glenmorangie  single highland malt

Reply #39December 26, 2008, 04:08:31 pm

andy2

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« Reply #39 on: December 26, 2008, 04:08:31 pm »
I forgot to tell you that I checked the glowplugs and only cyl #3 glow plug lit up the test light.This might be the reason It chugged on startup.Those glow plugs are pricy but might be worth replacing :lol:.

Reply #40December 26, 2008, 07:57:14 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #40 on: December 26, 2008, 07:57:14 pm »
Quote from: "andy2"
I forgot to tell you that I checked the glowplugs and only cyl #3 glow plug lit up the test light.This might be the reason It chugged on startup.Those glow plugs are pricy but might be worth replacing :lol:.


 :shock: wow... i'm amazed it starts so easily... i'll have to get the compression checked on this thing!  :lol: i can only imagine how it will run with the rings properly broken in  :D

i looked all over for the camera today but couldn't find it... i found it later but it was too dark to give a good video.. i'll try to take it tomorrow.

after approx 200km, the oil has a hint of black in it.  obviously the filter doesn't work too quick, but around 10-15 mins of driving *should* filter all the oil considering the flow.  this means that theres always going to be 15 minutes of soot buildup left in the oil, but we can't have everything  :wink:


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Reply #41December 28, 2008, 10:13:26 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #41 on: December 28, 2008, 10:13:26 pm »
so no real updates... weather was crappy so i didn't get the video done yet (should soon)

i'm wondering if anyone has advice on glow plugs.  i've heard that Beru are a really good name, better than the bosch duraterms. $26.95 vs $17.95 though...

thanks


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Reply #42January 02, 2009, 03:29:59 am

jtanguay

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« Reply #42 on: January 02, 2009, 03:29:59 am »
quick update:

i started the car without glow plugs @ -16C (weather network, actual temp unconfirmed)  :shock: with the car stumbling very briefly (very very briefly...)

after car sits for more than 8-10 hours though, it takes a few cranks to start up.  but after sitting just 2-3 hours, it will crank over just fine on the first revolution. and there is no way that residual heat will be assisting the cold starting after 3 hours, because there is none to speak of.  the car is as bone cold as after 8 hours, so it must be a fuel related issue.  i just hate starting the car with air bubbles...

so far this is looking to be an excellent build!  maybe i won't need to buy glow plugs after all  :lol:  Total seal FTW(ter)!  :lol:


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Reply #43January 02, 2009, 01:21:03 pm

Ziptar

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« Reply #43 on: January 02, 2009, 01:21:03 pm »
I just caught up with this thread.

That is awesome jtanguay! way to stick to it! Just what I needed to see as I've been feeling down lately, with the new job lest year, moving the family unit 1400 miles North and etc, the Jetta has barley seen a wrench and there is so much to do yet.

Speaking of which, when I drove the 03 Jetta up here last year it was still pretty cold. The idle was really chuggy and when it is cold. The GPs were shot, well, they were 5 years old and probably never came on in the 5 years the car was in Florida. DIs start really well in the cold without GPs, in fact I thing the Cummins B-Series engines don't even have them.

I got a set of Champions to get by on at NAPA for ~$11.00 each, you might want to grab a set of those just to get through winter.

Reply #44January 02, 2009, 01:36:19 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #44 on: January 02, 2009, 01:36:19 pm »
Quote from: "Ziptar"
I just caught up with this thread.

That is awesome jtanguay! way to stick to it! Just what I needed to see as I've been feeling down lately, with the new job lest year, moving the family unit 1400 miles North and etc, the Jetta has barley seen a wrench and there is so much to do yet.

Speaking of which, when I drove the 03 Jetta up here last year it was still pretty cold. The idle was really chuggy and when it is cold. The GPs were shot, well, they were 5 years old and probably never came on in the 5 years the car was in Florida. DIs start really well in the cold without GPs, in fact I thing the Cummins B-Series engines don't even have them.

I got a set of Champions to get by on at NAPA for ~$11.00 each, you might want to grab a set of those just to get through winter.


i might just do that thanks!  yea the cummins use intake air heaters...  one thing i've really been contemplating though, is hooking up the glow plug coolant heater system... this thing doesn't really make a lot of heat.  thats about the only thing i miss from my 1.6.  of course driving on the highway its fine though... but around town it'll never stay up to temp unless my heat is off... :roll:


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