Engine Specific Info and Questions > mTDI Mechanical TDI Conversions
mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ
theman53:
http://www.nosmokenopoke.com/forum/showthread.php?10578-Bosch-VP37-11mm-pump-(038-130-107J-and-0460-414-987)
Watch out on the link...sent me a couple different places before it went where it said it should. When you get there look at reply 7. Libby I have no clue as to what is better and is why I am hoping you know. I have just read some stuff like that link and some stuff that Tintin had on the TDI club saying they liked the DE143, but didn't really say why. I wish there was a definitive list of parts so we could know what played well together if we are playing around.
vanbcguy:
--- Quote from: vanbcguy on March 27, 2015, 11:35:39 pm ---Probably also worth mentioning... I removed the internal part of the 'whatever the hell it is' lever when I did my gov mod the other day. It didn't really seem to have a function and it's damn hard to get the pump back together with it in place. Doesn't seem to have caused any issues and I REALLY can't figure out what it's supposed to do after seeing how it went together internally.
It essentially made a veeeeerrrryyyy tiny difference in the ultimate maximum 'full fuel' position of the fuel control lever, but the way the linkage was set up it should never actually come in to play, at least on my pump, since the only time the lever would be in its 'doing something' position would be when the accelerator lever was at idle, which of course means the governor is already pushing the fuel control lever back meaning there's not really any way the fuel control lever could be touching its arm. Very weird.
--- End quote ---
--- Quote from: libbydiesel on March 28, 2015, 12:40:40 am ---That extra lever reduces the max fuel slightly, but only at idle... The only plausible explanation I've heard for it, I believe you came up with. It may reduce the initial puff of startup smoke. I do not believe that it will affect the normal operation at all.
--- End quote ---
Now that I've had that little lever removed for a while, I can say there's a definite increase in startup smoke with my car. She puts out a pretty substantial puff at startup, which she didn't do previously with that lever in place. I'm sticking with this theory...
Tylenol:
I see all the gov mods being done going to the internals of the pump but is this really nessasery if you stiffen the springs internally one way or another are you not just moving the governed speed up the rpm band which makes the fuel pump cutting back the fuel also move up the rpm band? Example if it were set to 4300 rpms fuel starts cutting back at 3500 let's say for sake of argument now we do the gov mod internally and we now have a max rpm of 5000 and fuel doesn't cut back till 4200 rpms! Is this correct or am I missing something?
vanbcguy:
--- Quote from: Tylenol on June 08, 2015, 11:14:11 pm ---I see all the gov mods being done going to the internals of the pump but is this really nessasery if you stiffen the springs internally one way or another are you not just moving the governed speed up the rpm band which makes the fuel pump cutting back the fuel also move up the rpm band? Example if it were set to 4300 rpms fuel starts cutting back at 3500 let's say for sake of argument now we do the gov mod internally and we now have a max rpm of 5000 and fuel doesn't cut back till 4200 rpms! Is this correct or am I missing something?
--- End quote ---
That's exactly what the point of the governor mod is - to move the governor cutoff range further up the RPM band. My current pump will happily fuel all the way up to 5500 or so, I've seen 5750 on some of my logs right before I shifted.
Completely disabling the governor doesn't really work - the pump design needs to have some spring left in the main spring to prevent breaking stuff for instance. The pump itself also has a redline - on a 1.6 with a 9mm plunger they start skipping around 6500. Larger plungers will increase this effect, reducing usable RPM range. The VE pump has a significant technical limit on the max RPM it can run.
Tylenol:
Oh I understand disabling it would not be wise it holds rpms constant with throttle position without it your foot would never quit moving to keep the same speed! But couldn't you just adjust the max throtle adjustment on the outside to get the same results more spring tension is the key to this doesn't matter how you get it by shim or by movement? Or do different VE pumps offer more movenent then others because on mine judging by movenent of corse I should be able to safely hit 7000 rpm without going into my pump? Then if your worried about no governor just invest in a heartz speed switch like ive got from Murphy the SS300-12 hook to your w pole on the alternator set for your rpm and it cuts fuel till dropped below then powered back on! Wouldn't this be better then altering a good design that works well already?
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